Sketchbook & Musings
See sketches from Chris’ travels, urban sketching trips and other fun works in progress.
Pen and watercolour sketch of Hereford Cathedral
A day out to Hereford with Gill, and as usual I am parked for an hour with my sketchbook while Gill goes off to the shops. It’s a happy arrangement and I thoroughly enjoyed sitting in this quiet corner enjoying the Autumn sunshine. I coloured it as well on the spot as it was quite warm and the paint dried quickly. I don’t think it’s too accurate in proportion but I’ll have another bash next time we visit Hereford... read more
Pen and watercolour sketch of Malvern Priory
This is one of my favourite views of Great Malvern town. Looking across the amazing jumble of rooftops that make up the precincts of Malvern Priory. We only moved to Malvern in the last year (2017) so I was keen to make a start on sketching, just as soon as I had finished knocking our house into shape! But as it was November and cold I could do no more than draw the outline in pen and colour wash it in on my return home. It’s not just me being cold that was the problem, but watercolour just won’t dry out in the cold which makes it tedious and usually spoils the result. It would be nice to do a studied watercolour of the scene but I think I will always like the freshness of the direct sketch from life... read more
Pen and wash sketch in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
This is a sketch I did from a photograph, specifically for a demonstration evening at the Solihull Society of Arts. It was entitled ‘Holiday Sketching’ and I chose the view as I wanted to show how to simplify what looks like a complicated scene, and produce a lively sketch within a reasonable time. The demo evening was in February, and by the time the sketch was finished I felt I had been back in Spain for an hour! It wasn’t intended to be a finished painting but an enjoyable experience and something that could be started on the spot and if necessary finished at home later... read moreTravels with my Art – The Cities of Umbria 2010
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An Artist’s Eye
Yikes! My solo annual exhibition of paintings in the Westwoods Centre Northleach is only three weeks away! How did that happen? Will I pull it all together in time? I always get pre-exhibition nerves at this point, as it feels as though my soul will be on display to the public very shortly. It is just four months ago that I sat in Todi, in Umbria on a sunny morning and painted the watercolour pictured here in this blog entry. It depicts the main doorway to the ‘Duomo’ or Cathedral in Todi, and is a reasonably accurate portrayal of the subject with its slightly rose tinted stone. Or have I painted it through rose-tinted spectacles? In fact there were workmen around the steps restoring the stonework with noisy machinery and red plastic tape connecting bollards around the place. So I painted selectively – my general rule is to leave out anything I like, but not to insert anything that isn’t there. This is of course known as ‘artist’s licence’ and some artists are very economical with the truth. Turner was a shocker, and actually moved buildings in Venice around all over the place in his paintings to suit his mood. I like to paint what I see, but only some of it! Traffic lights, cars? It depends; my mood is essentially romantic. Painting for me is a celebration of light, architecture and landscape, and I can only hope that people will enjoy seeing some of the world through ‘my eyes’ in my show next month. EXHIBITION OF PAINTINGS New paintings and drawings from Chris’ recent travels at home and abroad.... read more
Painting of Assisi
I’ve been meaning to produce a painting from a sketch of Assisi I did in May. But where to start? The photo I took at the time was very flat and colourless as it was raining most of the day! However the view was lovely and in my minds eye I could see it in early evening light with a misty landscape in the distance. So I’ve worked up a small watercolour sketch to sort things out. It’s a good example of simplifying a complicated subject as much as possible; bold cypress trees in bring the foreground closer; misty distance creates recession. Simple colour scheme, contrasting churches with landscape. I think I’ve got it – all I have to do now is paint it! It will a lovely subject for my exhibition, if I can get it right. Wish me luck! I’ll need... read more
On Travel (written on a plane home on 29 May 2010)
There are many reasons that compel people to travel. For some it is pleasure, or a holiday; for others it is business. Young persons will spread their wings on gap years; older parents will visit their offspring who have started families abroad. I love to travel to escape from the pressures of my everyday existence; to leave behind the familiar with a sense of adventure where I can become someone I would like to be, for a short while. But I am a bad tourist. I will travel with high expectations to a beautiful historic sunny destination; arrive with a sense of exhilaration and drink a coffee at a table sitting outside with a view: but then the child in me will be bored. I wish I could leave him behind, but he is always with me, so even reading guidebooks and dutifully taking photos, or riding on tourist road trains, he will be restless and pulling at my jacket complaining. So I have to supply him with a pencil and sketchbook, and a box of paints. Better still, I set him off on a ‘mission’ to go on a trail of old cities to report on the picturesque; or even set him on a challenge of journalising in words and drawings on a theme. Thus it was that I brought my restless fidgety child to Umbria, Italy, to find the places in his picture book and seek them out; then find more of his own, and make a new picture book he can call his own. The child is of course me, a person who is nervous and... read more
On the fun of sketching from life.
I was in London a week or two ago, seeking inspiration for painting. It must have been the only day for weeks that was NOT sunny! But still there is something about drawing directly from life in cities that I love to do. These are three of the sketches I came up with, along the river by the City. Straight in with a pen, and add a minimum of colour wash if I have time. I’m hoping to do some paintings from these drawings, but the most fun is always the drawing itself on the spot, even if they do turn out a bit clumsy and squiffy in places. The challenge is to keep the freshness of the sketches in the final painting. I tend to tidy things up too much when I try to paint ‘properly’. Perhaps I should try painting left... read more
Painting of the week 7 June 2010
From ‘Impressions of the Cities of Umbria’ In the city of Orvieto, Southern Umbria, Italy I had to admit I was lost. The twelve sided tower of Sant’ Andrea was what I was looking for, and although I had been there earlier in the day, the light had been against me. Now the sun was shining, but I couldn’t retrace my steps. Then, round a corner, and a charming view was before me amongst the cobbled backstreets of Orvieto. I gave up on my search, sat in the shade and did a pen sketch on my cartridge paper block. Serendipity is the art of... read more
Sunday 23 May Return to Todi
Writing this back at Perugia Farmhouse in early evening, sitting on a chair in bright sunshine overlooking a magnificent hilltop view across Perugia and the hills. Awoke this morning to a clear blue sky, and a warmth that was to last the day. I decided to return to Todi for the morning, as it was en route back, and at nine I was at the Porta Romana. Walking up the steep cobbled via Roma, I felt like I was the only person in the city, save a few older souls making their way to Mass. However as I emerged into the Palazzo del Popolo there was a flower festival setting up, so I sat to one side, and painted a small detailed study of the main door to the Duomo. After a coffee the place was busying up, and I couldn’t resist doing a sketch of the delightful scene before me, in the book, which will make a lovely painting, with its colour, and festivities. Being happy in my surroundings, I carried on and drew again from a different angle. The light was so good I took lots of photographs before exhausting myself and returning to the car. I decided to return to Perugia Farmhouse by the slowest and prettiest route, but stopped almost immediately outside Todi, on impulse to record another quick watercolour of the city from a distance which came off OK. And all this on a day I was going to take it easier! It’s been an enjoyable finish to an inspiring week; and the drive back, dawdling up hill and down dale via Masciarno, Spina... read more
Saturday 22 May Spoleto
With only one week’s sojurn in the Umbrian landscape I have been necessarily selective in the places to which I have been. EH went on to Cita della Pieve (for the sake of Perugio, his birthplace), Foligno, Montefalco, Fabriano, and even Urbino, which now I now longer in Umbria, but way to the east, deep in Le Marche. But it was the frescos of Luca Signorelli, and paintings by Piero della Francesca and other Umbrian artists that he sought. My agenda is different. Thus, as EH said; “Spoleto is a beautiful city of rose colour set on a high hill”, I set off back across country to the east, through high, twisting roads to reach Spoleto by nine this morning. Remarkably, I found a free parking area immediately to the north, and lower edge of the city walls, and climbed up through the narrow streets seeking coffee and inspiration. Pausing halfway up to consult the town plan I had wickedly torn from my DK book, I found I had left my spectacles in the car. No choice but to turn back. My arms are no longer long enough to read or draw. The trouble with all these hilltop towns, is that you either have to walk up, or down. Twenty minutes later I was ready for my first cappuccino of the day. Without preconceptions of Spoleto, I was not disappointed, The sun shone for the morning, with reservations, and I settled to the view in the sketch book looking down over the Duomo and city from the via della Rocca. This held great appeal for me, despite the fact... read more
Friday 21 May Orvieto
Promising morning, and wind my way across country to Orvieto, but on reaching the outskirts a moment’s inattention causes me to be swept on the toll paying Autostrada from Rome to Florence! After 23 kilometres of drumming my fingers on the steering wheel I come off at a small town called Fabro. To calm myself I stop at a bar for a coffee. As in all small towns in Italy, you can go through a single darkened doorway in a shabby façade, but inside is a spotless counter showcasing mouthwatering pastries, and all is inviting and smells like heaven. The young woman serving was on her mobile, but looked quizzically at me. I removed my Panama (now sadly deteriorating) and said “Un cappuccino and uno di questi” pointing to a custard filled confection with my name on it. She multi-tasked admirably, and I was much cheered by the delicious fare which I gratefully consumed sitting between the enormous TV screen showing football, and another elaborate screen with Lotto information on it. Two older men cheerfully shouted across the room at each other at intervals, and I felt glad to be in Italy. On paying, she was still on her mobile talking, but with eyebrow movements, and pointing at the till, she conveyed to me that she needed 1.80 euros. Now that was good value! Before getting back into the car, I paused to smoke a cigar in the street for a few minutes, and watched the town of Fabro go about its business at nine in the morning. Now Fabro is about as remote a town as you will... read more
Thursday 20 May Todi
Rise to bright sunshine! A wonderful surprise and I’m parked in Todi by 8.30am. Do the sketch on this page immediately as it was irresistible (if not in EH) the hill top church of S.Fortunato to the right, and below Santa Maria della Consolazione. I am immediately taken with Todi, and after a delicious pastry and coffee, take as many photos as possible again while the sun is bright. I need not have worried today. Settle down to work, and first tackle the Duomo ( in the sketchbook). To my amazement the tower appears to have been completely rebuilt since 1905, although this is not mentioned in my DK (Dorling Kindersley ‘Umbria’) guidebook. In EH there was an additional six sided upper storey with some sort of castellations and a short spire. Now the tower is squared off at its natural top, and instead of twin arches, there are single arched openings, one above the other into the belltower. Otherwise the façade is unchanged. Lovely. Turning around 180 from the same spot, one sees the Palazzo del Popolo (Palazzo Pubblico in EH). This is entirely unchanged, but most enjoyable to draw, so that was the next one in the sketchbook. I was in good spirits already, when from the middle of the square a young voice calls out “Hi Chris!”. I look around, and an Italian schoolboy is delighted to see me again. It was one of the schoolparty that annoyed me in Spello. As I waved back, another, a girl calls out “Hey Chris!” and smiles. It was charming and I eat my words from yesterday in Spello.... read more
Wednesday 19 May Assisi / Spello
Rise early, and out at 7.30 (check out of farmhouse) and head for Assisi. Easy drive, and park in probably the most expensive farmhouse in Assisi. Then an expensive coffee and pastry sets the tone for the day. Still, the farmhouse cost less than expected as it was early season. Not sunny, but at least dry; mist on the hills. All lanes and piazzax are very beautiful, and well cared for. Immediately find the first view, of the Basilica of St. Francesco, and draw in sketchbook. Unchanged but for the foreground; no donkey like in EH, but still unspoilt. Lovely subject, enjoy the drawing and look inside the church. Onwards and upwards; end up at the top of the hill at the ‘Rocca Maggiore’. It wasn’t on my agenda, but as I’d made the effort to get to the top, and couldn’t find the other view I was after, it looked a promising subject. After all the ‘industry of St.Francis I had experienced below, it was something primal, and of the earth, this crumbling fortress, rising against the great hills all round; the mist and clouds rolling past, heightening the senses. I drew the impression (in the sketch book) and then, quite literally stumbled on the rough ground across the vies that until that point had been denied to me, looking down and across the church of Santa Chiara and the Duomo San Rufino. This was simply entitled ‘Assisi’ in Eh and beautifully painted by the artist ‘A.Pisa’. I didn’t recognise it immediately, as the foreground has sprung up with very large cypress trees in the last century! Another... read more
Tuesday evening, back at Farmhouse
…After the last entry, still spitting with rain, manage to draw very quick perspective of the Via delle Occhi (in sketchbook) and finish off in the car. Houses and all very similar to plate in EH, but neater and tidier, and a tree to the left, which helps the composition! Sociable evening in farmhouse; usual mobile chat with Gill, then have conversations with Australian woman (Felicity), Carla (also Aussie) and a young Canadian couple. F is living in Umbria and has a passion for art history, religious studies and international culture, so learn much of Umbrian attitudes to life, and also ‘Barbarana’ a sort of Almanack based semi-pagan earth culture, which even figures on Spar calendars, it’s so mainstream. Obviously very big here F reckons it’s more important than religion to... read more
Tuesday 18 May – Gubbio
Last night I was fed up, so I went to bed early, finished the ‘difficult’ sudoku from last Sunday’s Independent, then slept for ten hours to 8 o’clock this morning (but for the usual call of nature in the dark; the sleeping hills all around look wonderful at night, twinkling lights on dark masses). So much for an early start, but straight out in the car, and into fog. Manage to struggle past Perugia on to the Gubbio road, and the day clears to arrive at fabulous medieval Gubbio in bright sunshine. Spirits soar; coffee with a view from the Piazza Quaranta Martiri the get stuck in. Photograph as much as possible whilst the sun shines. First draw the Porta Romana in sketchbook. Not in EH, but why not? On to the Palazzo Publicco and do detailed pen and ink drawing on smooth watercolour pad. Now called the Palazzo dei Consoli. An unforgiving subject, but I’ve got it I think. Draw from a slightly different angle than EH as it suits me better, compositionally. It is much the same as in EH, but since restored with glass in the upper windows. Lunch, then on the S. Giovanni Battista, which has been completely restored since !905, with a new rose window. (The one in the book was half bricked up, with a wooden door in the middle). I find the whole city charming, quite captivating, and would return. Halfway through attempting watercolour of S.G.Battista, the sun has gone, and the rain comes. Run for cover; not a bad stab at a watercolour impression, but not good light and fighting the... read moreMonday evening 6.30 at tourist café, Perugia Fontiveggio station
..and just finished a cheap bowl of lasagne at a cheap tourist café. I just can’t get the hang of Italy. The rain stopped, but had robbed me of half the afternoon. I returned to the view across to Assisi and did a pen and wash impression based on the pencil drawing from the previous page. That cheered me up, as that’s 3 items that are usable which is fine for the first day. The last two hours were the usual confusion for me trying to return to the station – Perugia is a maze! Go round in circles, cross ring roads, up and down the public escalators; eventually a local ‘granny’ starts talking to me, and pushes me on to a bus to the station. I had wanted to walk to find a meal on route, but I’ve ended up in this café, which is an oasis of peace, even if it is grotty, and the vegetables were stone cold. But it does have a toilet! (Lots don’t). Impressions of Perugia? Old city; scenic, chic; surrounding urban sprawl ugly, noisy, smelly and worse than Gloucester. I think I’m just tired. Go... read more
Monday 17 May 7.30am at the bus stop Perugia
Well, last night was good value. After two more beers at the ‘Bar Olympia’ I was best friends with ‘Salvatore’, an enthusiastic local who engaged me in conversation; his English not much better than my Italian but we were helped by the girl behind the bar who had worked in England. I bought him a drink, and whilst he smoked one of my cigars he pulled me aside and told me “not to trust the Perugini”. He said his family comes from Naples, but the Perugini are very close. They don’t like outsiders, although once they accept you they will look after you like family. Me, Stefano (the bar owner) and Lucky ( his dog) were all great pals by the time I left. There’s a wonderful view from the Farmhouse, a panorama of blue green hills which were all twinkling in the half-light as I returned along the track to be greeted by the farm dog, the geese and the cockerel. Later on Monday, rained off in café in Perugia. Bus into Perugia – the road surfaces are awful! I nearly took my teeth out and put them in my pocket, it was so boneshaking. The outskirts of Perugia are typical urban Italy; noisy, fumy, industrial, confusing and wearisome to the pedestrian. Then suddenly through an old gateway, and we go back in time. The Palazzo Pubblico has not changed at all, although it is now known as the Palazzo dei Priori. I did a drawing in this sketchbook with no cheating at all and it was much the same as the Plate 2 from EH. Eventually I... read moreSunday evening in ‘Bar Olympia’, near Perugia
..and the usual fun and games to the start of the trip. What did I expect? Why to arrive in sunny Italy, find a bus from Perugia airport to the main city centre, thence to get a bus to the ‘Perugia Farmhouse Backpackers Hostel’ as directed to on the website. Then tomorrow morning to return to the airport, pick up the hire car, and we’re off! The reality? I arrive in the early afternoon to the airport of Sant’ Egidio, which is a village hall in the middle of nowhere. Not a bus in sight, just hovering taxi drivers looking to strip me on as many euros as possible. It’s also overcast, and it’s been raining. So, I have a coffee and pastry (cheap and wonderful!) at the airport ‘Tabacchi’ and then go to the Hertz booth to see if I can pick up the car a day early. They’re OK about it, but they don’t have a ‘clean’ one for me, only one (a Lancia) with a few bumps and dents on it. Much better! I’m not so worried about driving it! So, I risk my life on the roads, but despite having printed off Google maps, spend a good hour driving all around the outskirts of Perugia, ending up on goat tracks, main roads, unknown villages, all on dreadful roads full of potholes. And we moan about out frosted roads this year! Eventually by sheer persistence and some cavalier u-turns I reach the Perugia Farmhouse. It’s wonderful. Rustic in a sort of 1970’s bad plumbing sense. Reminds me of my first experiences in Italy. Shower, shave and... read more